Plant milks in baking: which to use for cakes, custards and bread

Published 2026-10-21, updated 2026-10-21

In most baking, dairy milk can be swapped for a plant milk one for one by volume, and the bake will work. But plant milks are not the same as each other. They differ in protein, fat, sweetness and how they behave with acid and heat, and those differences decide whether a cake is tender, a custard sets, or a loaf has a good crust. This guide compares the common choices, shows which suits which bake, and explains the small adjustments that make the difference between a passable result and a good one.

What milk does in a bake

Milk is mostly water, and in baking that water dissolves sugar and salt, activates the raising agent and hydrates the flour. The remaining parts matter too:

Protein helps structure, browning and the stability of custards and sauces.
Fat adds tenderness and richness.
Sugars, including natural milk sugar in dairy milk, add sweetness and help colour.
Acidity and thickness change how it behaves in a recipe, for example making a buttermilk-style liquid.

A plant milk that is thin, low in protein and low in fat does the water job well and the others poorly. That is why almond and rice milk are fine for a plain muffin but disappointing in a custard.

The common plant milks compared

How each plant milk behaves in baking
Plant milk	Character	Good for	Watch out for
Soy	Among the highest in protein of the common milks (pea milk is similar), neutral to slightly beany taste	Almost everything: cakes, bread, custards, buttermilk-style liquid	Soy is a common allergen. Some people notice the taste in delicate bakes.
Oat	Creamy, mildly sweet, soft body	Cakes, muffins, bread, pancakes, creamy sauces	Some oat milks thicken or turn gluey if boiled hard. Oats are often cross-contaminated with wheat, so look for a gluten-free label if that matters.
Almond	Thin, mild, low in protein	Cakes, muffins, cookies and quick breads	Weak in custards. A tree nut allergen.
Coconut milk (canned)	High in fat, rich, coconut flavour	Rich puddings, ganache, whipped coconut cream, tender cakes	Strong flavour in subtle bakes. Carton coconut drink is thin and behaves like almond milk.
Rice	Very thin, naturally sweet	Plain, light bakes where milk is just liquid	Little protein or fat, so custards and sauces are weak.
Pea	Protein-rich, fairly neutral	Similar uses to soy where soy is avoided	Flavour varies by brand.

Picking one for each bake

Matching plant milk to the bake
Bake	Best choices	Notes
Cakes and cupcakes	Soy, oat, pea; almond also works	Use unsweetened, plain milk. Swap one for one by volume.
Muffins, pancakes, quick breads	Any of the common milks	Because these batters are forgiving, use what you have.
Cookies and scones	Any, used sparingly	Little milk is used, so the choice matters least.
Custards, puddings, pastry cream	Soy, oat or canned coconut milk, with a starch such as cornstarch	Plant milks do not set like egg custard. A starch thickener does the setting, as in the thickeners guide.
Yeast bread and rolls	Soy or oat	Warm the milk to lukewarm before adding yeast. A bit of sugar helps feed the yeast.
Buttermilk-style liquid	Soy first, then oat or pea	See the vegan buttermilk substitutes guide. Almond and rice often stay thin.
Whipped cream or ganache	Chilled canned coconut cream	Chill the can overnight and use the thick part that sets on top.
Egg wash or glaze	Any plant milk, optionally with a little maple syrup	The syrup helps browning and shine.

Making a buttermilk-style liquid

For a buttermilk-style liquid, stir 1 tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar into 1 cup of plant milk and rest it 5 to 10 minutes; soy thickens most reliably, and the vegan buttermilk substitutes guide has the full method and which bakes suit it.

Sweetened, flavoured and fortified milks

Use unsweetened, unflavoured milk for baking unless the recipe says otherwise. Sweetened and vanilla milks add sugar you did not plan for, which affects sweetness, browning and sometimes texture. Savoury bakes and sauces need plain milk to avoid an odd sweetness. Barista blends are often a little richer and are designed to hold up to heat, which can be useful in puddings and sauces.

Heat, acid and curdling

Plant milks can separate in hot, acidic liquids. Add them at the end, or let a hot liquid cool a little first.
Heat milk gently for custards and pastry cream. Boiling it hard risks scorching and, with some oat milks, a gluey texture.
Whisk thickened mixtures constantly, because starch sets quickly and sticks to the base of the pan.
Browning can be paler than with dairy milk. Bake until the colour you want, and use a brush of plant milk with syrup on the top for extra colour.

Gluten-free and allergy notes

Soy, almond, coconut and pea milks are not made from gluten grains, but oat milk is made from oats that are frequently contaminated with wheat unless labelled gluten-free, and some products add other ingredients. Soy, almond and coconut are allergens for some people, and several milks are fortified or contain additives. Read each label, and ask a doctor or dietitian if you have allergies or coeliac disease. Gluten-free bakes often benefit from slightly richer milks such as soy or oat, but the flour blends guide and the gluten-free problems guide matter more to the final texture than the milk does.

What this guide is based on

Swapping plant milk for dairy milk one for one by volume is a widely used general rule of thumb in baking, not a result of our own test baking.
The buttermilk-style method (1 tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar per cup of plant milk, rested 5 to 10 minutes) is a commonly published technique. Soy milk curdles most reliably because of its protein.
How each plant milk behaves (protein, fat, sweetness, thinness) reflects general product characteristics. Brands differ, so treat our comparison as a starting point.
Using a starch such as cornstarch to set plant milk puddings and custards is general cooking knowledge; see the thickeners guide for starting ratios.
Gluten, allergen and additive remarks are general. Read each label and ask a doctor or dietitian for personal advice.